Train vs. Subway

If you're not aware of this, the train is DIFFERENT from the subway, and both require different kinds of tickets. The train uses a one-way or round-trip pass that you can buy from a special machine at the train station. The same machine will ask you if you'd like a Metrocard as well. Buy a Metrocard; you can keep money on it to let you onto the subways later on.


The train. AKA Long Island Railroad (LIRR).

The train takes you from Babylon to Manhattan, which is the city. Babylon is a little town that's kinda smushed together with West Islip and Bayshore and all that. When you're going to the city itself by train, you're going to start in Babylon and end up at Penn Station. Coming back, you'll start at Penn Station and end up in Babylon.

Brooklyn's station is a little different, I can't remember the name, but if you're ever lost in New York City and need to get home, Babylon is where you want to end up. Sometimes you have to switch trains in Jamaica when going from Penn Station to Babylon.

These directions totally make sense once you're here!

Helpful website: http://lirr42.mta.info/index.asp


About Subways

The subway scoots you around the city and spits you out near museums an other stuff you might want to see in New York.

Get a Streetwise Metro Map to fold up into your wallet. It tells you all the different routes and stations. I'm leaving the one that Nick and Elaina gave me so that the next intern can grab it, but in case you lose that one, more are available at the local Barnes and Noble bookstore.

The Metro Maps have nice color-coded and labeled paths that each subway takes.

Pro Tip: Whatever direction the street is going where you enter the subway, the subway below is going in the same direction! So if you plan on heading east, make sure all the cars are going east before venturing below.

A Crash Course In Litho

Having reached the half way point, I realize that I am desperate to make a print. I have learned a lot from working here, but it doesn't mean to much if I can't put it to use. Actually producing work here requires a fair amount of persistence - but luckily, I have gotten a lot of help during slow periods - and last week I ran my first litho print. The following is a loose outline of what I've learned about lithography. I feel like I've come a long way considering that I knew nothing when I arrived here. I's a complicated chemical process, with lots of steps - but it all
revolves around the principle that water and oil repel each other. The process i describe here involves printing directly from a limestone block. Lithography is derived from the Greek word "Lithos" - stone (or from stone), and is a very old and effective method of printing from a smooth surface to paper. However - in order to print effectively - the stone must be completely flat and totally smooth. Thus, before anything else, the stone must be grained, a process by which any previous image or "ghost" is removed from the face of the rock. This is done using a levigator - a heavy round tool which is spun across the surface of the stone after grain has been applied. The process is akin to sanding wood in that you start with a coarse grit and work your way to a fine dust - eventually polishing the surface. No scratches or rough spots can remain, as they will retain ink during printing.




Here is a stone during graining. A small stone like this can take several hours to grain if it isn't flat. It must be absolutely flat or the contact press will miss areas of the drawing that are low.




The grains run from 50 to 280, but the stones I have grained run through 60 to 80, 100, 150, 180, 200. It's a long process, but nothing is worse that getting almost finished and picking up a stray coarse grain on the levigator and scratching your rock. This means virtually starting over. At one point, I was assigned to grain several stones at 5:00 pm to be ready for Carroll Dunham at 8:00 the next morning. At the end of a work day this is the last thing you want to hear - but it is a reality of the print studio. So, putting a scratch in one of these at 9:00 pm would make me real sad.



The stones are then marked and set aside for the artist. It generally takes much longer to grain the stone than it does to draw on it.



A drawing is done with either Litho crayons (a range of soft and hard, waxy drawing pencils), touche (a water soluble waxy paint, which applies like water color and acts as a resist to water) or a combination of both. You can achieve some really cool things with touche - which reticulates as it dries, making some really nice solid washes, which can be manipulated with crayons as well. The thicker you apply these elements the thicker the resist will be and the darker your image will appear.



Moving these stones is a real pain - and sometimes they are just too heavy.



Here is my image. Before etching, talc and resin are dusted onto the stone to cause the ink to thicken. Some of the drawing is wiped away during etching - an important but difficult lesson. Regardless - the resist is so strong once applied that the subtleties re-emerge when inking. Drawing on these is fun - but you cannot erase. So be sure of your image and go gently. Here, gum has been applied to cool the etch, and preserve the stone while it is not in use.


My print will likely be a one block, black and white image - though I could add drawings to include color stones or plates to be done on the offset press. the Carroll Dunham prints pictured below include several stones for each print. registering them gets tricky, especially because the stones are all different sizes, and some have multiple small drawings on them. Each is a different color and represents a different portion of the image. All these elements are matched up with the key drawing - or in this case the black part of the drawing that has the most information in it, which is printed onto a mylar. The mylar helps indicate where the paper must lay each time the image is printed so that all the images match up, and every sheet looks exactly the same as the original proof.



Each stone has a proof of the image covering it to protect the drawing and identify which part of the image is on which rock. All of these separate elements add up to make the final product, pictured right.



A leather roller is used on many stones to ensure that the image retains the maximum amount of ink without drying the surface of the stone. During inking, the stone must be wet enough to repel the oil based ink from every part of the stone that doesn't have pencil or touche on it.



Here is the stone on the press, and after being inked to capacity. Asphaltum and tannic acid are used to cause the greasy drawing ares to retain ink effectively. The press bed beneath the stone must be totally clean - even a hair beneath the pressure of the contact press can cause a stone to crack. Inking lightly first, and then to heavy, the image comes up rather slowly.



This stone is ready to run through the press, and have proofs pulled from it. It will darken as the the first several proofs are run, and then the amount of ink and pressure can be adjusted to best suit the image quality. Spot etching can be done to increase the amount of detail in reticulation or heavy wash areas. In this case only the very darkest parts of the image need to be re-etched. To add to the drawing, you can counter etch the stone and add more drawing - but aside from small sanding areas, drawn areas cannot be removed.



You can see the progression as the ink builds up on the stone. At this point - unless I decide to further alter the image, this stone is ready to run prints from.

If I ever get the opportunity, I would like to run a small edition of this print, as I am pretty happy with it considering it is my first attempt. Some areas are light - but overall it looks a lot like my drawing after being run on paper. It will darken further, and look much better on white paper. will include an image of this work when I have a decent proof of it - but here is a poor consolation prize:




As I said - you must be persistent to get your own work done. Make it known from day one that you want to make prints and get started on them right away. I started week three, and this is as much as I've gotten done. You will need the help of printers to work in the studio - so buddy up. Otherwise, you will run errands and wash dishes the whole time - and it might not feel worth it.

I'm sure many have wondered why I haven't included any of my NYC adventures here, so that will be my next blog. Suffice it to say: I have done a lot, but could never do it all in four months. Plan things ahead of time! Make use of your weekends! Time Out NY is a great way to keep up with cool stuff going on in the city. Galleries and Museums are free - so that has been a bulk of my experience. More about that later.

Continued Studio Misadventures

Having done a bit of etching at OSU didn't hurt - but they things are done here are a bit different. Once again, I was able to pick up a lot and stand in from time to time, until I was trusted with more involved tasks. Here is a run down - again, in no particular order - of my involvement in the etching process during the first month.



Ed, a printer from Norman, OK, staples a freshly printed Terry Winters to a wooden panel to ensure that is dries completely flat and even. Straps are used around the edges of the sheet to protect the surface, and the wood has a thick plastic sheet under it so the back of the sheet is not compromised either. These are very expensive prints, so great lengths are taken to ensure that they make it to the edition in pristine condition.



Ed lays a plate on the press for the last run on a Winters print. The prints are registered by ticks around the outer edge of the plate which line up with a grid on mylar. There were three prints in the particular edition - but the portfolio consists of ten different prints at 60 sheets each.



This is where paper gets soaked, and then drained when the screen is raised. It is then blotted before use. Damp paper draws more of the ink from the etched plate than a dry sheet.



Ed and Jason ink an enormous Kiki Smith plate. The plate is set on a hotplate and ink is applied to it while warm, which helps the ink settle into the deeply bitten areas of the plate. Excess ink is then removed from undesired areas with tarletans, cotton wipes and a fine paper which picks up ink from the plate without removing it from etched areas. This process is done before every print is run.



Here, a print is being run. This is truly a two man job - as the plate is very heavy and akward to move, and each printer must pull the wool blankets snug as the print runs underneath the roller, because any crumpling or creasing could be disasterous. I have spent many morings at the laundromat cleaning these blankets. (Incidentally, Planet Laundry is the place to go - an impressive facility as far as laundromats are concerned. Don't forget the Woolite!)



The printers move the plate from the hotplate to the press bed. Shiny!



Before any printing begins, the plate undergoes a process called "Steel Facing." During which, the plate is fully immersed in rust filled water. The water is highly ionized, and highly conductive. While one end of the plate is connected to a power source (pictured below) a long steel pole, also charged is run across the surface of the plate. The pole never touches the plate, but the plate draws ionized steel particles to its surface during the several hundred passes it undergoes, and comes out coated in a very durable metal which will hold up to many more runs through the press that a plain copper plate. This is a painstaking process - but fortunately is only done before printing begins, unless the steelfacing begins to break down, in which case printing must be stopped, and the plate stripped and refaced, making everyone quite grumpy.



Do't let this image fool you. This really isn't very much fun.



The plate must be washed with marble powder, ly and nitric acid to remove the existing steel facing, should a new face need to be applied.



Here is the power source. The Kiki plates were to big for the facing tank you see in the back, so the flat bath was used. Were it a smaller plate, it would simply be suspended it the tank for a decided length of time, and the charged poles and hangers would do all the facing work.



Here is the plate after steel facing, which would be printed from the following morning. You can see it apears silver, but that is really just a sheen of protective steel. When this plate was etched it still apeared copper. Behind it you see two large aquatint boxes - an area I hope to investigate while I'm here. Anyway - from the last two posts you can see tht simply making yourself available makes the days go by a lot faster. The more you hang out in the office, the errands you wil run. (You will still run errands.) Days where I am busy helping and learning make for a happy intern. And the more i have helped and shown enthusiasm, the more responsibilities I have been given, which feel really good.

I Helped.......?

SOME THINGS I DID IN THE FIRST MONTH:

As an intern, I have been unsure about my position - though I am certain it is at the bottom. Still, it is pretty hard to know where to you stand. Some days the intern will feel as though he can do absolutely nothing right - but it gets better. Just remember that you are here to learn - and try not to be shy. It is good to know how to keep your eyes and ears open and your mouth shut - but nothing will be handed to you at ULAE in terms of learning. I mostly have just hovered over the printers and picked their brains - asked questions about everything they are doing, to which some printers respond much better than others. Don't feel like a nuisance - you are one - but don't let it get to you. Besides the alternative is running errands and doing office work. Since I've been here, I have helped the printers with a number of things, including helping with a Rosa Loy Litho edition. This has included some menial press operation tasks, wiping plates and cleaning rollers. I feel good about this work because it saves the printer a whole lot of time and elbow grease. On the Loy edition we ran abut 80 sheets, which means a lot of work on ach individual sheet at mant different stages. I started out by tearing paper, then cleaning plates, and wiping the litho block on the stone press. I was then assigned to tear paper AGAIN, which is the last step before curating. I will go into a bit more detail about litho and etching in later blogs - but suffice it to say, just by making myself available I have learned a whole lot through proximity and practice.

Sorry these are not chronological by any means -- damn technology!




To tear down paper for the finished prints, a tear down block is constructed to ensure that every sheet of the edition is exactly the same. The borders round the image must be the same for every sheet. The paper is held in place with pins in the registration marks, and then weighted so the paper doesn't move. It seems like a male job - but these are very expensive sheets of paper, so it must be done right.



The offset press is an essential element of the editioning process. It allows an unlimited number of prints to be run in a very short amount of time. That doesn't make it easy - it is a high maintenance machine and there are many variables that can cause printing to be a nightmare if overlooked. The Rosa Loy prints were three base colors - so 80 sheets of paper run 3 times with a different plate - thats 240 runs, then black, run on the old litho press - which in itself took an entire workday, and we only got up to the 60th sheet. In between each run, registration must be checked - ink added or removed, blankets wetted, and routine trouble shooting. The printer must also make sure every print looks exactly the same in terms of color. You can see where an apprentice is a huge help.



Here is the whole edition prior to printing the black. Some editions are several hundred - and when you get into the Johns and Rauschenbergs, even more. Each sheet is worth a TON of money. Printers get printer's proofs, which are only saleable after the edition sells out.




Here is a shot of the press at Skidmore. The surface of the sone must remain wet at all times during the printing process - so having someone to wet the stone is a neccesity. The registration setup took a little trouble shooting - but the printer eventually devised a very simple and efective system, and with two people, the last step of the editioning process went very smoothly - though it took about 8 hours of standing over the press.




Jason (the man who taught me everything In know about Lithography) carefully adds ink into the rollers, which will even distribute and oscillate the ink so it prints completely flat. The printer must often rely on sight and intuition to add and remove ink or pressure so that all prints match the matchup proof, which has been aproved by the artist prior to editioning.




Jason checks the registration. A hairs worth of misalignment makes all the difference. The image is comprised of several plates, and each must match up perfectly to get a quality print which will be ready for introduction to the art market.

This is a very breif overveiw of my apprentice work with litho. Next week - what I've learned about etching.